The Breguet ref. 2639 repeater watch, received by Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810, was not just the world's first wristwatch: it connected women with portable time measurement.
This sent a clear signal to the world: "Yes, women can be passionate about the complex mechanics of watches too." This first model inspired other watchmakers to create similar pieces, but women's watches only became culturally acceptable by the late 19th century. Gradually, women began to take their place in the watch industry - a traditionally male domain. It turned out they managed no worse than men.
Today, women shape the future of watchmaking in various roles: from designing and creating watches to implementing new materials and leading companies. Society is gradually shedding the stereotype that watchmaking is exclusively a man's world. On the eve of International Women's Day, it's fitting to highlight names that have already earned recognition but are not spoken of enough. These women are confidently climbing the career ladder, challenging influential men in the industry. While such articles shouldn't just come out once a year, now is the time to change the established narrative. Here is a list of the best watch brands led by women.
Dr. Rebecca Struthers - Co-founder of Struthers Watchmakers
As a child, nothing predicted that Rebecca Struthers would become a highly respected watchmaker - or even a watchmaker at all. However, she was always drawn to the intersection of science and art, which eventually led her to leave school and enroll in art school. A few years later, she began restoring watches, teaming up with her husband, and in 2013, switched to designing watches. Today, Rebecca is a watchmaker, designer, and historian. She is the co-founder of Struthers Watchmakers and the first woman to receive the title of Master Watchmaker from the British Horological Institute. All Struthers watches are handmade in their Birmingham workshop. Rebecca is also an author of books, such as The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, which discusses the evolution of watchmaking with a focus on its artistic side. Becoming the UK's first official "watch doctor" is also a significant achievement.
Eva Leube - Founder of the Brand
Born in Berlin, Eva Leube became an independent watchmaker in 2011, earning her Master Watchmaker degree at 23. Over the years, she has collaborated with names like Ulysse Nardin and Thomas Prescher, creating unique watches with flying tourbillons and retrograde time indicators. Eva has also worked with leading watchmakers in Germany, Switzerland, South Africa, the USA, and Australia. One of her main achievements was a curved mechanical movement for the Ari model, named after her son. Making such a movement required a special angular milling technique to ensure all components fit the curve of the case. Ari is the embodiment of Eva's dream, allowing the mechanism to be seen through an elongated curved sapphire glass.
Susan Galvin - Founder of Galvin Watch Company
Finnish watchmaker living in Sydney, Susan Galvin founded Galvin Watch Company in 2020. In a short time, she earned a reputation by successfully crowdfunding the Alku project on Kickstarter - unexpected 40mm unisex watches. Educated at the Finnish School of Watchmaking, Susan worked at LVMH and then at Omega in Sydney. Creating her own brand came after being laid off during maternity leave amid the COVID-19 pandemic, showcasing overcoming adversity. Galvin is the first female watch brand in Australia. Her work combines classic aesthetics inspired by Finnish nature, Scandinavian design, and Australian style. Susan believes that educational institutions should more actively promote female energy in this still male-dominated field.
The Paulin Sisters - Co-founders of Paulin Watches
The Scottish microbrand Paulin Watches, founded in 2013 by three sisters, specializes in affordable minimalist watches. Charlotte, Eleanor, and Elizabeth built the brand from scratch - initially turning a spare room in Charlotte's apartment into a warehouse. Paulin now has its own boutique in the west end of Glasgow. In 2023, Paulin merged with another Scottish brand, anOrdain. Interestingly, the founders of both companies - Charlotte Paulin and Lewis Heath - are spouses. After the merger, Paulin maintained its female creative direction, combining modern style with anOrdain's traditions.
Christine Hutter - CEO of Moritz Grossmann
Christine Hutter is one of the few women leaders who independently created a watch brand from scratch. In 2008, she founded Moritz Grossmann, overcoming economic challenges and leveraging the advantages of vertical integration. As an advocate for gender diversity, Hutter hires women for all key positions, believing the industry needs female design ideas. Starting her career at A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original, she acquired the rights to the Moritz Grossmann brand - the name of the 19th-century founder - with the aim of reviving its legacy. Today, all watches are handmade, strictly following the founder's traditions.
Fiona Krüger - Founder of the Brand
Fiona Krüger's education in fine arts and design explains her unique style. Her abstract, sometimes punk and gothic watches stand out sharply against traditional high watch fashion. In a world where design is often dictated by the mechanism, Fiona creates watches where movement follows artistic concept. Her collections include watches inspired by David Bowie's Ziggy Stardust hairstyle and Mexican Day of the Dead motifs. The designer admits she consults with movement experts to understand which parts can be modified, sometimes making the mechanism itself a central design element.
Christel Rognoble - CEO of Speake-Marin
Entrepreneur and watch enthusiast Christel Rognoble is a strong figure in the industry. Since 2012, she has led Speake-Marin and invested in the Le Cercle des Horlogers workshop, expanding the brand's expertise in complex mechanisms. Rognoble is now the sole owner of the company, one of the few independent women in the watch business. She attributes success to determination, which she believes many women in the industry possess. Under her leadership, more than a dozen new movements have been developed, the popular Piccadilly case for the Openworked and Academic lines has been improved, and a sporty Ripple model has been created.
Maria Christina Habring - Co-founder and Managing Director of Habring²
The watch business is often called romantic, and in the case of Habring², it literally is. The Austrian brand, founded by spouses Richard and Maria Christina in 2004, positions itself as "mechanical watches made with love." They even immortalized their meeting and brand creation story in a comic on their website. The couple produces watches with a minimalist design, specializing in complications: minute repeaters, jumping seconds, split chronographs, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons. Maria is responsible for quality control, thoroughly checking all components, including rare purchased parts. Despite several GPHG awards, the brand remains modest, adapting Swiss movements for its own needs.
Betina Menescal - Founder of Möels & Co
At 21, studying architecture at Westminster University in London, Betina Menescal began sketching watches in her Kensington studio during the pandemic. Today, her brand Möels & Co offers two models, gaining a cult following with a unique design. The debut model 528 is named after the "love frequency" of 528 Hz, the second - 369 - is based on Nikola Tesla's belief in the magic of these numbers. The watches feature a 39mm sporty case with a Sellita SW200-1 movement, an integrated bracelet, a dial in nine colors, and Betina's patented tool-free clasp micro-adjustment. Möels & Co is a family business: her father handles finances, her sister - marketing, and the creative vision fully belongs to Betina.
Ilaria Resta - CEO of Audemars Piguet
Ilaria Resta is the new CEO of Audemars Piguet, a brand that needs no introduction. Although her career was not related to watchmaking but to the European haircare industry, her experience in developing global brands will be valuable to AP. Since joining the company, Resta has accelerated sustainability efforts, collaborating with international programs such as Swiss Triple Impact, and strengthening work with local suppliers. Her management style is based on circular leadership principles, eliminating unnecessary hierarchy levels and promoting a more synergistic and collaborative ecosystem in watchmaking.
Conclusion
More organizations are striving to break down the barriers of unconscious biases in watchmaking, especially regarding female leadership. New opportunities are being created for both brand management and creative freedom in independent projects. And this process must continue.