The current model Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 310.30.42.50.01.001 was introduced on January 8, 2021.
This version of the Moonwatch received numerous updates, which were positively received by many Speedmaster fans. However, those who were not ardent fans were mostly surprised by the significant price increase - from just under €5,000 to €6,100.
Updates to the Modern Moonwatch Model
A full comparison of the previous model and the current Moonwatch version can be read in a separate article. In brief: Omega made changes to the case, dial, hands, and bezel. An important innovation was the long-awaited new bracelet. Essentially, everything changed, but the design remained recognizable. Since I own one of the previous models, I waited a few months before purchasing the new version. I needed to determine whether I would prefer the version with sapphire glass, a dial with an applied logo, and a bracelet with polished links, or the classic version with Hesalite (acrylic) glass, a dial with a printed logo, and a fully matte bracelet. Moreover, the version with sapphire glass has a transparent case back showcasing the modern 3861 movement with a Master Chronometer certification.
Hesalite Glass
I decided to go with the "standard" Speedmaster Professional with Hesalite glass. I already had the 3861 movement on my Moonshine Gold model. Additionally, I like the versions that are as close as possible to the original Speedmaster Professional. Nevertheless, if I didn't have the Moonshine Gold, I would have chosen the model with sapphire glass. Omega reported that the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch version with sapphire glass is currently selling better than the one with Hesalite. This is the first time for the Moonwatch - previously, the Hesalite model was always more popular.
Five Years with the Omega Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001
To avoid repeating information from previously published materials, I will proceed to a long-term review. It should be noted that for the past five years, this model has not been my daily watch. In the past, the stainless steel Speedmaster Professional 145.012 and the more modern 3570.50 were part of my daily rotation set, but not this model. My Speedmaster Professional Moonshine Gold and Speedmaster Calibre 321 were worn much more often. Nevertheless, I wore the Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 on many occasions, and the watch was always at hand. They fit almost any style and situation, which makes them a versatile choice.
The watch has minor scratches and scuffs, but nothing critical. The Hesalite glass requires light polishing, but it is still in acceptable condition.
After five years of ownership, I'll start with timekeeping accuracy. The predecessor with caliber 1861 had accuracy according to Omega's standard of -1/+10 seconds per day, while the 3861 movement with Master Chronometer certification should show 0 to +5 seconds per day on average. I recently tested my Speedy Pro 310.30.42.50.01.001 on the chronometer at the Onewatch office: the result was +4 seconds per day with the dial facing up (horizontal) and +2 seconds with the crown down (vertical). I did not measure other positions, as I consider these the most frequent for my watch.
Amplitude
Amplitude, an important indicator of the need for servicing, varied from 335 to 340 degrees depending on the watch's position. This fully corresponds to the official Master Chronometer specifications, and I am satisfied with the amplitude. According to my rule, when the amplitude in modern watches drops to 270 degrees, it is worth considering service. For monitoring accuracy, I set the lift angle of the balance at 50 degrees.
The lift angle value can be set in most chronometers. This is the angle of rotation of the balance wheel at which it contacts the anchor. Each mechanism has a different value, and it can be found in online tables. Using the correct lift angle is necessary for accurate measurement.
I am not too critical of the accuracy of my watches since I often change them. However, I believe that if a brand claims high precision for its movements, the watches should meet these expectations.
Stepped Dial and Print
One of my concerns when the new references were released in 2021 was the printing on the dial. It changed slightly compared to previous generations. Now, the "Speedmaster" and "PROFESSIONAL" inscriptions have the same width, rather than transitioning from narrow to wide as before (the logo, "OMEGA," "Speedmaster," and "PROFESSIONAL" used to transition from narrow to wide). I was not sure whether this would bother me over time. After five years, I can say it doesn't, but I consider the printing of previous generations more refined. The stepped dial of the current model adds vintage charm, as does the heavy counterweight of the chronograph second hand.
Concentric Circles
As you may have noticed, the modern Moonwatch has several dial variations. I'm not talking about colors (black, white, "reverse panda," gold, etc.) but about the finish of the recessed counters. In some versions, concentric circles are present on the sub-dials, while in others, they are not. Sometimes they can only be seen through a magnifying glass. This is because Omega uses different dial suppliers who produce them to one specification but with varying finishes. My dial has these circles, but they are only visible under magnification. Unlike the Speedmaster Calibre 321, where the concentric circles are visible to the naked eye.
In any case, the dial of the modern Speedmaster Professional has more depth than its predecessors, which is a significant advantage. Furthermore, the heavy counterweight of the chronograph second hand looks better than the flat end. For me, these details are more important than the wide printing of the "Speedmaster" inscription on the dial.
Nixon Bracelet
An obvious update and improvement is the stainless steel bracelet. It is the same as that of the Speedmaster Professional Moonshine Apollo 11 2019 edition, but the links at the clasp are 1 mm wider (15 mm). It is an incredibly comfortable bracelet and a significant step forward compared to the previous Omega bracelet, which was used from the mid-1990s until 2020. Initially, the new 2021 bracelet, called "Nixon" (named after the gold Speedmaster gifted to US President Nixon in 1969), did not have a micro-adjustment clasp.
About a year later, Omega began equipping the Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 and the sapphire 310.30.42.50.01.002 versions with micro-adjustment bracelets. I do not have such an adjustment, and it is usually not needed, as the Netherlands does not experience extreme weather conditions that would require its use. At some point, Omega offered a "kit" that allowed the bracelet to be upgraded by replacing the clasp and one link.
Although I did not have a strong dislike for the previous bracelet, it was outdated. The end links made it a bit uncomfortable for very thin wrists.
In terms of design, the new bracelet seems more elegant to me due to the tapering from 20 to 15 mm. I also enjoy looking at the engraved lines on the clasp of the modern Speedmaster Professional.
Water Resistance
One of the updates with Master Chronometer certification is the guaranteed water resistance of 50 meters. Previous generations had a rating of 30 or 50 meters, but it was not recommended to submerge these watches in water (and it is still not recommended with the Calibre 321 model). Compliance with Master Chronometer standards means that each modern Speedmaster Professional has undergone water tests with a 10% safety margin. The main thing is not to use the chronograph buttons in water.
I am not a fan of swimming, and when I do swim, I either wear specialized diving watches or no watch at all. I don't want to worry about damaging the watch in the pool (I feel differently about the sea and ocean). Nevertheless, the Speedmaster Professional can be used for swimming, but it's important not to touch the crown and buttons. It would be nice if Omega could increase the water resistance to 100 meters - this would give buyers more confidence.
Sharpness of the Case and Bracelet
On the internet and forums, some complained about the sharp edges of the case and bracelet. I disagree with this - neither then nor now. Of course, there are some sharp edges on the bracelet and the case in the style of the 105.012, but if they were too smoothed or polished, the design would change too much. Sharp parts, such as the lower part of the case rim, do not touch the skin, and I only feel them when removing the watch, when my fingers touch these areas.
For comparison, my Rolex Day-Date and other models have edges that feel no less sharp. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST bracelet seems even sharper to me than this Speedmaster. On the wrist or when putting on and taking off, there are no problems. However, for other people, it may be different. I recommend trying on the Moonwatch before purchasing to check for sharp edges.
Speedmaster Pricing
Previously, I thought that the Speedmaster Professional was too cheap for its capabilities. In fact, they were some of the most affordable models in the Omega catalog. Now the price is more commensurate with similar watches on the market. However, since 2021, there has been a general price increase among many brands, including Omega. The retail price for the Hesalite version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001 on a steel bracelet is €7,700. The sapphire glass version costs €8,900 (the model with a white dial is €100 more expensive). The new Speedmaster Professional "Reverse Panda" version costs slightly more than €10,000.
Over five years of operation, I have not encountered any technical problems with the Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001. The timekeeping accuracy is perfect, and wear is limited to typical scuffs on the glass and case. In my Speedmaster Professional 3570.50 model, I had an issue with the crown - it was very tight and required replacement. Omega also demagnetized my newer Speedmaster Calibre 321, as it deviated in timekeeping. Thanks to the METAS certification, ensuring anti-magnetism up to 15,000 gauss, such problems will not occur with this movement.
As seen from the beginning of the article, the current price is significantly higher than the starting price in 2021. Would I buy these watches today for €7,700? Without a doubt, they are still some of my favorite watches in the price segment up to €10,000. But I would regret not buying them earlier. One can consider purchasing on the secondary market, the main thing is to find a piece in the desired condition. For me, the Speedmaster Professional 310.30.42.50.01.001 remains a classic and preferred choice. If scratches on the Hesalite glass bother you or you want to admire the movement through the case back, the sapphire glass versions are also excellent.
For additional information, visit the official Omega website.