Diver-Commando Watches: Among all the romantic, idealized, and theoretically possible uses in the watch world, perhaps none captures the admiration of certain watch enthusiasts more than the image of a wetsuit-clad operator with a dive knife between his teeth, setting the bezel on his dive watch in the darkness before a long underwater swim to assault a secret maritime target. The main players here are well-known: Rolex and Tudor Submariner, Omega Seamaster 300, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms - all are hugely popular on the collector's market due to their legendary associations with naval military organizations worldwide.
However, since the world of military procurement is often motivated solely by the powerful dollar, the times when current luxury names were supplied to military organizations have mostly passed over decades, leaving many smaller, less expensive watchmakers to fill the void in the tactical silent world where watches remain a standard life-support tool and a critically important accessory.
In the 1980s, the French Navy (Marine Nationale), which focused on watches, was transitioning from the Tudor Submariner dive watches, which were quickly becoming too expensive for harsh use, and experimenting with various mass-market dive watches, purchased in small batches as needed. In 1982, Jacques Bianchi, a Marseille watchmaker trusted by Comex to service their Submariners and numerous Cousteau team dive watches, released in small batches the simple quartz JB200 dive watches with a left-hand crown and a noticeable frogman image on the dial, with much of the first batch sold in local dive shops near Bianchi's workshop. However, by the late 80s, the National Navy confirmed the usefulness of the JB200 design, ordering several batches of watches for use by various French Navy units, including Commando Hubert - somewhat like the American SEALs, but with more baguettes and smaller coffee cups.
Over the ensuing decades, the JB200, long discontinued, lived in obscurity, being a subject of discussion and interest only for the most dedicated military watch enthusiasts in the darkest corners of primarily French sub-forums collecting military watches. However, as the tide lifts all ships, the recent explosion in popularity of military-issued watches like the aforementioned Rolex “Milsub” has also sparked new interest in lesser-known - and infinitely more affordable - military-origin watches, and soon the odd JB200s that found their way onto French eBay or watch forums were snapped up at rapidly rising prices. I myself, a longtime fan of military dive watches with heavy breathing, vividly remember attempting to acquire such a JB200 in well-worn condition on French eBay around 2010 for a respectable 200 euros, only to find that someone else out there beat me to the punch, and that memory - and the associated trauma - is forever etched into my synapses.
In 2021, Jacques Bianchi, still working as a watchmaker in Marseille in his 80s, decided to revive the JB200 close to his heart, enlisting the help of Fabrice Pougez of MATWatches and Simo Tber, a digital marketing expert in the watch industry, to realize his dream - and likely capitalize on the market trend - using Kickstarter as a funding platform. This brings us to today and my review of the new 2021 Jacques Bianchi JB200 model, which has several key differences from the original version while accurately recreating the overall look and feel.
The Destro Case
While in many ways the JB200 watches resemble a 1970s “Skin Diver” prototype that could have emerged from any brand, they are distinguished by several elements that give the watch a unique personality. Perhaps the most noticeable of these is the left-hand crown at 9 o'clock, or destro - which translates from Italian as “right,” implying wear on the right wrist. This design, at least for me, is generally better suited for watches intended for real diving use, as Destro watches worn on the left wrist do not leave the crown on the back of the hand during work, and also protect the crown and hence the movement from impacts related to being on the business side of the wrist.
In terms of wear, these 42mm wide, 47mm long, and 13.3mm high watches are substantial, but the 40mm bezel diameter helps make them more suitable for the average 40mm diver on the wrist, aided by a comfortable natural rubber strap in a “tropical” style, which is also equipped with quick-release spring bars, although I also wore the watch on various nylon straps as the rubber strap was a bit long for me at the tail end (or maybe my wrist is just too small - 6.25 inches).
Looking beyond just the case orientation and wearability, we have what is essentially an exact 1:1 replica of the 42mm Monnin case, most famously associated with the Heuer 844 model, as well as such lesser-known (but equally awesome) watches as the CWC Royal Navy and SBS diver collections, and of course, the original JB200 model.
As for the finish, the modern JB200 traditionally combines circular brushing on the forward-facing surfaces with polishing on the sides of the case, the crown, and the 60-click unidirectional diver’s bezel topped with an aluminum bezel insert inlaid with Super-LumiNova, as opposed to the acrylic insert with luminous coating on the original 1980s version. This insert does indeed glow brightly, but I can't help but wonder if the Super-LumiNova indices, which actually protrude slightly from the main material of the bezel insert, could be more prone to scratching or chipping compared to indices buried under the relatively safe layer of acrylic.
Only time will tell, but I would very much like to see a fully acrylic version here, as we have seen on some CWC reissues in recent years.
In terms of upgrades over the original watch, the 2021 JB200 comes with a flat sapphire crystal, which, as far as I can tell, lacks any type of anti-reflective coating but still offers a clear view of another most appealing attribute of these watches - the dial and its diver graphics.
The Frogman Graphic?
Undoubtedly, the most polarizing attribute of these watches is the frogman graphic applied in white on the very finely grained matte black surface of the central dial. To put it mildly, it is an eccentric feature, but for diving nostalgia lovers or hieroglyph enthusiasts, the diver emblem well conveys the watch's purpose, and for me, especially considering the round, rectangular, and triangular indices and straight pencil and arrow hands, legibility is hardly affected by what Vostok Amphibia fans already refer to as the “frogman dude” on the dial.
Regarding luminescent materials, the modern JB200 has a shade of Super-LumiNova on the dial, hands, and bezel insert that slightly resembles “faux patina,” but not so much that it overly concerns those who cannot tolerate artificial lume. Furthermore, the luminescent coating is well-matched, shines brightly, and lasts long enough, although these watches do not reach the level of the best divers from a certain Japanese brand you may know well.
While the graphics, indices, and hands are close to the original 1980s JB200 model, the OG model had a date window at the “six” position, whereas the modern version does without a date complication, which in my opinion is always welcomed in dive watches. The text on the dial is slightly different, but it is evident that the main aspect of this reissue was the desire to stay close to the original design, which, at least for me, was very cool.
From French Quartz to Japanese Automatic Movement
The last talking point in terms of differences between the original watch and this 2021 version is the movement. While the original watch used a quartz - sigh - caliber, the modern version is clearly aimed at enthusiasts and less at frugal military supply officers with the SII NH35 caliber, essentially an off-the-shelf version of the 4R35 caliber used in many Seiko dive watches, like the venerable Samurai collection. Although there's nothing particularly sexy about the NH35 caliber, it is well-known for its reliability and durability and is capable of high regulation despite somewhat unimpressive accuracy specs, though the JB200 prototype under test kept time within average single-digit figures per day.
Another point: the NH35 beats at 3 Hz or 21,600 VPH, so the seconds hand sweep here is not as smooth as a 4 Hz caliber, like the Swiss ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200, which many of you write about in the comments and which should have been used in this watch. However, if sweep smoothness is your number one priority for a relatively affordable dive watch reissue, I would say you are doing it wrong, and the NH35 is a reliable movement in all respects, fully in line with the robust, capable ethos of these watches both in the 1980s and today.
Just Another Diver From a Heritage Reissue?
At this stage in my watch experience, it's fair to say I have a pretty good sense of the type of criticism that new watches are most often subjected to, and in this case, I expected to hear things like: “Well, this random microbrand diver has an NH35, and it costs a little random sum less than the JB200.” Or perhaps, “For 600 euros, this watch must have a 2824,” followed by something about Swiss calibers always being better than Japanese movements. And if you belong to one of these camps or find the diver graphic on the dial off-putting, by all means, do not buy this watch - and I'm frankly surprised you made it this far in the review.
But for everyone else, the new JB200 is a cool, fun, well-made, and, I dare say, unique watch with its own intriguing history tied to both the French military and Jacques Bianchi and his unique experience servicing historically outstanding dive watches. And in a watch industry that clearly can support dozens of microbrands producing essentially the same Rolex knock-offs, I'm glad to see a tiny brand take a risk, do something interesting, and succeed with a reissue that will far exceed the success of the original watch it apes, while staying close to the history and heritage it hopes to honor. The Jacques Bianchi JB200 watches are available on Kickstarter at a pre-sale price of 594 euros or about 700 USD. Learn more at en.jacquesbianchi.com.
Essential Data
>Brand: Jacques Bianchi Marseille
>Model: JB200
>Price: Kickstarter pre-order price is around $700 depending on exchange rates.
>Size: 42mm wide (40mm at the bezel), 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick.
>When the reviewer would personally wear it: Anytime I want something more quirky and unusual - like a palate cleanser that can withstand aquatic conditions.
>We'd recommend it to a friend most likely: A military watch geek or a dive watch nerd. You'd have to be a geek for this.
>Best characteristic of the watch: For me, the left-hand crown orientation is superb for comfort, and it’s something other brands should consider, especially when it comes to dive watches.
>Worst characteristic of the watch: I wish the bezel insert were acrylic and the luminescent material was safely buried like in the original model.