Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano Review

Ninety years. Do you know who else is turning 90 in the year of our Lord two thousand and twenty-one? Willie Mays. The Empire State Building. The Star-Spangled Banner (as the official anthem of the United States, that is). In 1931, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was also introduced - an undeniable classic in the lexicon of important watches of the past century. Many seasoned watch enthusiasts say that every collection should include a Reverso, right in the box next to a Speedmaster and a Submariner. Generally, I try my best to avoid the 'starter pack' mentality often found among new collectors who just don't know better, but when it comes to this legend of Art Deco dress watches, I am happy to side with the collective wisdom. Why? Because the Reverso - to use the language of the current generation - is simply magnificent.

The Reverso, introduced in 1931, is one of those rare models that emerged out of sporting necessity - you probably already know this story. If you're new, in short: the unique flip-over dial of the Reverso was designed to be turned over to protect its fragile glass from a polo mallet blow. That's why, even in all its Art Deco elegance and even in 18-carat rose gold, heavily decorated modern Reversos still carry a peculiar sense of robustness of a tool watch - as if they are still an object of special purpose rather than just an evening accessory like most traditional dress watches. This means that after a few months of honest wear, the Reverso will look even better if marks appear under the elegantly pointed lugs or on the polished sides of the case - neither of which, frankly, will take much time.

It seems that every five or ten years, we get a new volley of limited edition Reversos, timed to coincide with some current anniversary. Of course, it's not the most original course of action from Jaeger-LeCoultre, but anniversaries usually bring the most wearable or the most interesting and coveted versions - and this Duoface Fagliano release from the Tribute collection, dedicated to the ninetieth anniversary of the Reverso, is certainly no exception. The watch with a stunning sunburst red dial, contrasting with the rose gold case and hour markers, is complemented by a textured burgundy leather strap, handcrafted by Jaeger-LeCoultre's partner - Casa Fagliano, a renowned Argentine bootmaker producing goods for five generations since its founding in 1832.

Generally speaking, suede is the perfect textural complement to help smooth out the excessive elegance of the design, and it works especially well here with its additional pieces of canvas, helping to balance the blatant 'jewel' elements of Deco and contrasting all the gold framing the bright red dial with rougher, more masculine textures. And speaking of masculine style, this model is slightly larger than the traditional Reverso sizes, with a height of 47 mm and a width of just over 28 mm. If you're new to the world of Reverso, these are traditionally small, very thin watches that typically take some getting used to. This slightly larger case (partly due to the complication it conceals) helps bridge the gap between the overt formality of the original and gives it more alignment with what the modern collector prefers.

In keeping with the Reverso form, all the excitement begins when you unlock the case hinge and flip it over. The earliest Reverso models - and the most accurate modern reproductions of the original 'Monoface', featured in the Tribute collection, only had a solid metal back - again, that very protection from a polo mallet blow. But here we have not just another watch dial with a beautiful eggshell texture, but a time indicator in 12- and 24-hour formats. Known as the Duoface, caliber 854A/2, employing this dual complication, was developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1994 specifically for the Reverso model, allowing the owner to set the time on either side (using a tiny hidden slider located at the top of the strap above the 12:00 mark) to display two separate time zones, or simply use the reverse side as a glorified AM/PM indicator - not entirely unlike modern GMT watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is not new to referencing the Duoface in modern Tribute watches - they are available in both stainless steel and rose gold with a blue dial, but this is the first time we see them in red, using a rougher strap configuration inspired by polo boots themselves. Overall, this is perhaps the most functionally natural and useful execution of the dual-faced watch, breathing entirely new modern utility into the Reverso not seen since the patrols of the polo field. I sincerely love watches in a rose gold case, where the red and white dials look particularly impressive. Although the watch currently features this strap, curiosity makes me wonder how the Reverso would look if JLC simplified them even more to a harsh sporting base, using matte stainless steel or titanium and dial details more reminiscent of Polaris than Art Deco - perhaps only then will we finally get the JLC with a dual chronometer of our dreams?

This Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano model is available exclusively through Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques and is limited to 190 pieces (because of the 90th anniversary). The price is $24,300 USD. Learn more about the Reverso model and check the brand's boutique network in your region at jaeger-lecoultre.com.