When you think of Panerai, you likely imagine cushion-shaped watches with diving capabilities, oversized cases, multi-layered dials, and relatively simple yet powerful movements with few complications. This is true, as it is the core concept of the brand, represented in the classic Luminor or Radiomir collections. However, in recent years, the Florentine brand has shown that it can handle complications such as chronographs, the always intriguing equation of time, or even tourbillons. One complication the brand has barely touched in its history (I say 'barely' because there's only one example) is the perpetual calendar, otherwise a staple in the industry. Surprisingly, only in 2021 does it appear in the collection, with the new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech PAM00715, which we see here, and its new in-house movement.
You can delve into the brand's history and find only one instance of Panerai watches with the perpetual calendar complication. These watches, known under the numbers FER00015 (steel) and FER00016 (pink gold), don't even bear the Panerai name on the dial, as they were released under the Ferrari brand. Indeed, from 2005 to 2010, there was a deal between the two brands to create a collection called 'Ferrari Engineered by Officine Panerai' with watches easily identifiable as Panerai-made - cushion-shaped cases, but with design differences - yet the watch company's name wasn't on the dial. Instead, only the Ferrari trademark was used. These Ferrari-themed watches are the only instance where Panerai equipped a perpetual calendar, in this case, the OP XXII caliber, a base Valjoux 7750 without the chronograph function but with an additional Agenhor QP module on top. Quite surprising for such a renowned watch company, but this year, the situation changes: Officine introduces watches with an in-house perpetual calendar, with a new movement and several tricks making them quite special.
This new complex movement, known as Calibre Panerai P.4100, is introduced in two models: PAM00742 in a Goldtech case with a blue dial (not pictured here) and the current PAM00715, an even more luxurious embodiment of the concept with a platinum case and green dial - a theme first introduced in the Luminor Marina PAM01116 model.
Looking at the new PAM00715 Perpetual Calendar - or Calendario Perpetuo, if you prefer - it's impossible to deny that it's a watch by Officine, with all the signature design elements present in modern models. Being part of the Luminor collection, this model is executed in a contemporary style, its 44mm case having a more rigorous design than the Luminor Base or Logo watches. Naturally, it features a crown-protecting bridge, as well as a convex glass on top with a large dial opening.
One of the features of this model is its material. Indeed, to make this new mechanism even more special, Panerai decided to place it only in their patented precious metals. The PAM00742 is housed in Goldtech, a special alloy with a high copper content and a platinum admixture, giving a deeper red color and more resistance to fading. Today's PAM00715 model is made from Platinumtech, another patented alloy developed in the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee.
It still belongs to 950 platinum alloys but is 'harder than conventional platinum, with improved physical properties,' according to the brand's statement, which doesn't disclose its formula and says that 'it's more difficult to machine and polish.' As for the rest, the case is typical for the brand's products and equipped with sapphire crystals front and back, with a water resistance of 50m - not what you'd expect from a brand with such diving watch credentials, especially since there are no recessed correctors in the case to reduce WR.
On the wrist, the 44mm diameter and weight of platinum are certainly felt. This is not surprising for Panerai, a company accustomed to oversized and heavy watches, but make sure to try the watch before purchasing, as they deserve a solid wrist.
The dial of this new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM00715 is perhaps the most striking element. The brand returns here to the combination of platinum with a relatively soft green dial, with a classic layered architecture and sunray pattern. It pairs with gold-colored hands and white luminescent material, which overall creates a relatively modern look. The color is pleasant and gentle, matching well with a patinated brown alligator leather strap, closed with a platinum clasp.
The display is also quite unusual. To maintain the iconic look of Panerai models with their uncluttered dials, the brand decided not to overcomplicate the design. Besides the central hour and minute hands, an independent GMT function (always practical), and an additional sub-dial at the '9 o'clock' position with a small seconds hand and day-night indicator, the perpetual calendar function displays only the main indicators: the day of the week and the date. What might be mistaken for a date watch is, of course, more complex, and other calendar indicators are moved to the back. To be fair, we usually have a good idea of the current month, and this display is quite pleasing - albeit somewhat in the Moser style.
Flipping the watch reveals that the Panerai P.4100 caliber has a known architecture (shared with other P.400X family movements) but is significantly altered to accommodate the QP functions. Indeed, the QP is not a module added atop the movement but integrated into it. Additional functions on the back include month and leap year indication, which is convenient when setting the watch, a four-digit year display, and a power reserve indicator. This mechanism, wound by a micro-rotor, beats at a modern frequency of 4Hz and, thanks to its twin-barrel architecture, can store energy for up to 72 hours or 3 days when fully wound. The decoration is traditional for the brand, with hairline decoration on the main bridge and diamond-cut chamfers. The presence of an engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor slightly elevates the appearance, but from such a complex and expensive watch, more could be expected.
Availability and Pricing
The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech PAM00715 is now available in the brand's boutiques and retail stores. The price of this platinum model is €66,000, while the Goldtech PAM00742 is priced at €46,000.
I know that platinum is more challenging to process than gold, but the €20,000 difference between gold and platinum seems exaggerated, especially for watches that are already not cheap. Looking at an obvious competitor, the equally large and bold IWC Pilot QP model, it costs around €30,000 in a steel case. If Panerai offered its new Calendario Perpetuo in steel or titanium in this price range, it would be more relevant. Not to mention that it would still look as good and be more comfortable...
For more detailed information, visit www.panerai.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – PANERAI LUMINOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR PLATINUMTECH PAM00715
Case: 44mm diameter – Platinumtech case (patented 950 platinum alloy), matte and polished – signature crown-locking device – sapphire crystal front and back – water resistance 50m
Dial: Green sunray dial, layered construction, cutouts for markers and numerals with luminescent plate underneath, gold-colored hands with Super-LumiNova luminescent coating
Movement: Calibre Panerai P.4100, in-house – automatic with micro-rotor – 35.1mm x 7mm – 55 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 3-day (72-hour) power reserve with twin barrels – stop-seconds reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar with date, day of the week, month, 4-digit year, leap year, GMT, power reserve indicator
Strap: Patinated brown alligator leather strap, white stitching, 24/22mm, Platinumtech clasp
Reference: PAM00715
Price: €66,000. Also available in Goldtech case (patented 18k gold alloy) with blue sunray-finished dial and strap, ref. PAM00742 – Price €46,000