If you're searching for simple, historically relevant, and grounded mechanical watches that can endure a few knocks while perfectly displaying the time, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical collection is certainly worth your attention. As an almost perfect embodiment of the military field watch concept, where legibility is the main feature, the Khaki Field Mechanical is now enlarged to a 42mm diameter. We recently had the opportunity to get acquainted with the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical model with a white dial.
Hamilton boasts a rich history of creating tool-like watches inspired by military themes. Here is a whole range of models, from diving and pilot watches to field watches. Collections under the Khaki name are characterized by durability, legibility, and practicality. The models must withstand several knocks, time must be readable at a glance, and they must serve a specific purpose. And yes, watches designed solely to measure time have a limited purpose, but in field watches, they must perform this function perfectly.
HISTORICAL INSPIRATION
If you look at the history of the Khaki collection - and we will understandably focus on the Khaki Field model - it has roots going far back. The watches are inspired by the Hamilton “Hacked” model, mid-20th-century military watches from Hamilton. This might sound a bit silly in today's world of cyber hacking, but the name refers to the “hack” seconds system, which stops the mechanism when the crown is pulled out. This allows perfect time synchronization with comrades in the field (just as an example).
Hamilton used this to create a collection exuding a military atmosphere, although today, with the advent of digital chronometers, this is no longer necessary. However, it is reassuring to know that there are still watches you can rely on in case of a need in field conditions, even if this “field” is a rocky path somewhere in the mountains where you go hiking during summer vacations.
Khaki Field watches, based on military watches, perfectly embody this type of watchmaking. The design is restrained, focused, with excellently readable dials featuring bold contrasting colors and markings. And while the Khaki Field collection includes additional indicators such as the day of the week or even a chronograph (though only one), the purest interpretation of what field watches should be is perhaps the Khaki Field Mechanical model, introduced in 2018. This becomes quite clear when compared to vintage military watches from Hamilton, such as the 1981 US Military Ref. MIL-W49374B model (see above) with an almost identical dial.
HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL
As the name suggests, we are talking about mechanical watches, specifically, hand-wound watches. In 2018, Hamilton released surprisingly simple yet capable Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical watches with a very vintage-relevant diameter of 38mm. Even then, the watches had all the hallmarks of proper field-use watches. They had a well-proportioned case with a matte finish (less glare and reflection) and a clear, legible dial. The time was displayed thanks to a simple yet reliable hand-wound mechanism. The time was indicated by central hands contrasting with the black dial beneath them.
Initially, the watches were presented with a black dial featuring beige and white markings. By now, there are several dial colors and case finishes, enhancing the versatility of the watches and often their military theme. For example, a white dial with contrasting black and beige hands or even a coffee-brown dial - all this is possible. As for the case finish, you can choose the matte steel of the original, as well as coffee-brown or black PVD coating. And earlier this year, the collection was supplemented with a bronze edition. In 2019, like other Swatch Group brands, Hamilton replaced the original ETA 2801-2 mechanical movement with the more modern H-50 movement, providing an 80-hour power reserve.
42MM OLDER BROTHER
While the 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical proved to be excellent watches in terms of value for money, the size makes them quite small on the wrist. While this is perhaps historically accurate, some people prefer to wear more substantial watches. So, naturally, Hamilton introduced a 42mm version with exactly the same style and proportions as before.
Fortunately, thanks to the size increase, the watches have not lost their tool-like appearance. You still get a very legible dial with a double hour scale (from 1 to 12 and from 13 to 24), and the same reliable and practical H-50 hand-wound movement. This means that the essence of the watches has not changed, only the size. Currently, the watches are only available with a white or black dial and a matte steel case, but it is quite likely that we may expect other options in the future.
The enlarged case wears very well on the wrist, and at 42mm, it still remains a decent size for most. Not too big, not too small, just a watch that suits most wrists. The watches are equipped with sapphire crystal, a closed case back, and a relatively large crown. It is easy to manipulate thanks to its size and knurled profile, similar to the 38mm version. The only downside is the 50m water resistance, whereas you might expect double that.
The dial is black with white or beige markers and numerals, or black-beige on a white dial. On the outer side is a minute track with beige triangular markers every 5 minutes. Next is the main hour track with a clear 12-hour scale. One step inward is an additional hour scale - from 13 to 24. While this may somewhat clutter the dial, it fits into the military theme. The hands are of a pleasant size with beige luminescent material. The central seconds hand with a beige arrow-shaped tip and lollipop counterweight completes the indication.
The H50 hand-wound movement powering the Khaki Field Mechanical watches (both 38 and 42mm variants) is a sensible choice for several reasons. It is historically more accurate for watches of this type while maintaining simplicity of design. It also gives the watches the necessary reliability and ease of maintenance, as befits true field watches. Fortunately, the modern design provides a very generous 80-hour power reserve. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 per hour (3 Hz).
The size increase of the watches is accompanied by the addition of a steel bracelet with a folding clasp with the same matte finish as the case. This bracelet significantly changes the appearance of the watches, making them more sporty and less “field-like.” Of course, if you want a purely military look and feel, you can opt for a woven green NATO-style nylon strap.
The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical can be purchased for 595 Swiss francs on a green NATO strap or 710 Swiss francs with a steel bracelet. This is a reasonable price increase considering that the 38mm watches cost just under 500 Swiss francs for the steel bracelet on a NATO strap.
For more information, visit Hamiltonwatch.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL 42
Case: 42mm diameter - stainless steel case with a matte finish - sapphire crystal - solid case back - knurled crown - water resistance 50m
Dial: black or white dial - white-beige or black-beige markers and numerals - double hour scale - central hour, minute, and second hands - luminescent material on hour markers and hands
Movement: Hamilton H-50 movement - manual winding - 17 jewels - 21,600 per hour (3 Hz) - 80-hour power reserve
Strap: green woven NATO nylon strap with leather details - stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp
References: H69529913 - white dial, green NATO strap
H69529933 - black dial, green NATO strap
H69529113 - white dial, steel bracelet
H96529133 - black dial, steel bracelet
Price: CHF 595 on green NATO
CHF 710 on steel bracelet