Anniversaries are easy to celebrate, but creating a truly worthy product is a completely different task.
To mark the 30th anniversary of Chopard's Fleurier manufacture, the brand returns to its roots: the L.U.C 1860 model, the watch that effectively launched the L.U.C program in 1997. The new version doesn't break the established formula but refines it, made from steel. This model intersects the brand's key principles: in-house movement production, high-quality finishing, and a restrained design that favors subtlety over flashiness. How challenging is it to surpass the latest elegant everyday Chopard model? Let's find out.
Case: Optimal Dimensions and Innovative Materials
The case diameter is 36.5 mm, with a thickness of 8.20 mm, placing the L.U.C 1860 on the smaller side of the modern dress watch spectrum - and this is intentional. The proportions mirror the original, and for collectors who prefer watches that are nearly invisible under a cuff, this is a deliberate choice, not a limitation.
The case material is Lucent Steel™ - Chopard’s proprietary alloy, developed in-house and first used in the Alpine Eagle collection in 2019, now used in all of the brand's steel watches. The production involves 80% recycled material, and its hypoallergenic properties are comparable to surgical steel. A practically important parameter for finishing is the alloy’s hardness: it receives and holds fine surface finishes well, which is critical for meeting the Poinçon de Genève requirements.
The Poinçon de Genève is one of the strictest independent certifications in Swiss watchmaking, applying to both the movement and the case. According to Chopard, meeting its requirements in steel is significantly more challenging than in gold due to the material’s characteristics during polishing and beveling.
Dial: Hand Guilloché and Unique Color
The dial is the main focal point in the L.U.C 1860. It is made of 18-carat white gold and adorned with a hand-guilloché pattern of